Unpronounceable and inexplicable to all but someone from the Maritime Provinces.
Somewhere to hang out drinking and gassing all day maybe? No - just a shack with a couple of petrol pumps - but then again... I have no idea how to pronounce their name, but the Paq'tnkek are a band of the first nations Mi'kmaq (Mi'qmaw) people who are indigenous to Canada's Maritime provinces, and this was on a small reserve that I passed. Unlike the unfortunate Beothuk of Newfoundland, the Mi'kmaq were able to survive the intrusion of Europeans into North America, most likely as they managed to acquire firearms to protect themselves. There is still a population of around 40,000 in the Maritime provinces and Newfoundland, of which around 500 belong to the Paq'tnkek.
Interestingly (to hockey players at least!), before the industrial manufacture of hockey sticks, the Mi'kmaq were renowned for hand crafting ice hockey sticks from local hornbeam.
This gruesome scenario of suspected scarecrow abduction and beheading must be one of the most horrific scarecrow crime scenes I have yet encountered....
...and all before breakfast, which I had hoped to find when I reached the Trans Canada Highway. Surely there must be a convenient café? But I was to be disappointed, and resigned myself to continuing with an empty stomach. But I cheered up considerably when I was invited in for a morning coffee and bagel by a delightful couple I got talking to on my way through Heatherton - (sadly I have forgotten their names as I was unable to write them down immediately -if you are reading this, please let me know!). Who needs a Tim Horton's when you can be welcomed into a Canadian home ...
To avoid a long detour I had to follow the Trans Canada Highway for several miles. Negotiating road works..
It was a long hot trudge through the heat of the day - apparently temperatures were well into the thirties, so Lady was very glad of a garage pit stop to refuel with water ...
.It was a relief to arrive at Antigonish where I had found stabling care of pacing enthusiast Jim Kell, who made me supper and provided a welcome shower and bedroom. Pacing races are very popular in Canada, and he still keeps a few young standardbreds. Jim in front of some of his racing photos....
Temperatures continued to swelter in the thirties for the next couple of days, though I managed to avoid most of the heat by setting out as early in the morning as reasonably possible.
A welcome spring at Glen Bard..
Forced back onto the Highway for a few miles before Barneys River Station...
It was only later that I was told that this particular section was notorious for the number of accidents!
Oonagh and Louise (shown here with daughter Caedda) who kindly took me in when I turned up unannounced on their doorstep in Barneys River Station on July 3rd..
In spite of a full stables, they managed to find temporary space for Lady in the corral. And for me it was a real opportunity to relax and recharge my batteries as they put me in a glorious cool studio apartment they have created in one of the buildings. I was able to indulge in shower followed by a welcome siesta, read and nibble on the food Louise put in the fridge for me, before sauntering down later for a glass of wine with my hostesses, who were busy preparing for their forthcoming wedding. Many thanks and all the best for your future happiness!
The headstones in the cemeteries are a constant reminder of why Nova Scotia is so called...
Bear X-ing. Just as well Lady can't read.....
The sign is on one of the wooden rubbish bins that all Canadians have outside their houses to prevent wild animals from destroying rubbish bags awaiting collection.
On July 4th we were hosted by the unstoppable Herb Best, a consummate horseman who breeds and trains quarter horses on his impressive Krymsun Farm in New Glasgow. He specialises in producing western pleasure horses, including three AQHA (quarter horse) world champions.
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